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TRAVEL SKETCHES IN THE OLD WORLD 













































Travel Sketches 

Ln the. 

Old World 

A 

Woodruff K.Aykroyd' 



Thomas S. Rockwell Company 

CHICAGO 

1931 



1 . 0 * 


<L*f/ 


NjfH 51 

n 




Copyright 

THOMAS 5. ROCKWELL COMPANY 
CHICAGO 
1931 


©cn 


40607 




* 


AUG -3 1931 



Contents 


Roadside Sketches—Signposts—England 

- 

- 11 

Cottage at Takelay—England 

- 

- 12 

Old Black and White Near Shrewsbury— 

-England 

- 13 

A House in Ely—England 

- 

- 14 

Porch at St. Mary Bromsberrow—England 

- 

- 15 

Porch at Huddington Court—England 

- 

- 16 

Church Porch at Widford—England 

- 

- 17 

Porch at Great Blakenham—England - 

- 

- 18 

St. Mary Bromsberrow—England 

- 

- 19 

Old Houses near Colchester—England 

- 

- 20 

Some English Inn Signs ... 

- 

- 21 

Along the Road in Holland 

- 

- 22 

Along the Dyke in Holland 

• - 

- 23 

Au Temps Jadis—Vernon—France 

- 

- 24 

Old Timbered Group in Rouen—France 

- 

- 25 

Tour de la Grosse Horloge—Rouen—France 

- 26 

Fifteenth Century House—Rouen—France 

- 

- 27 

Old Houses in Abbeville—France 

- 

- 28 

The Church—Honfleur 


- 29 

En Face de I’Eglise—Conches—France 

- 

- 30 

Old Houses at Lisieux—France 

- 

- 31 

Place Victor Hugo—Lisieux—France 

- 

- 32 

An Arcaded House in Dol—France 

- 

- 33 

Dinan—France .... 

- 

- 34 

City Square—Dinan—France 

- 

- 35 



Tour de I’Horloge—Dinan—France ------ 36 

Rue de Jerzual—Dinan—France.37 

Timbered House in Morlaix—France ----- 38 

Place Terre au Due—Quimper—France ----- 39 

Old Houses at Josselin—France ------ 40 

Rue Neuve—Auray—France ------- 41 

Church at La Gravelle—France ^ - 42 

Porte St. Patern—Vannes—France ------ 43 

Cafe 7 Tabac—Le Mans—France ------ 44 

Saumur—France --------- 45 

Chinon—France --------- 46 

Place de la Poissonnerie—Chartres—France 47 

Fifteenth Century house—Chartres—France 48 

Lake Como—Menaggio—Italy ------ 49 

Venetian Palace on the Grand Canal—Italy 50 

Ponte Vecchio—Florence—Italy ------ 51 

Assisi—Italy ---------- 52 

The Clock Tower—Capri—Italy ------ 53 

Italian Chimney Tops-—Venice—San Gimignano 54 

Italian Chimney Tops—Venice ------ 55 

Italian Chimney Tops—Perugia—Assisi—Florence 56 

Wrought Iron Suffolk Hinges. 57 

German Wrought Ironwork ------- 58 

Italian Ironwork - -- -- -..-59 

Ironwork from the Victoria and Albert Museum - - - 60 

German Candlestick and Cathedral Door Lock 61 




(]3lack and White 

"Then your two years in Paris may be regarded as so much wasted time?" 
said the Vicar (in Somerset Maugham s "Of Human Bondage"). 

"I don t know about that. I had a very jolly two years, and I learned 
one or two useful things." 

"What?" 

"I learned to look at hands, which I’d never looked at before. And instead 
of just looking at houses and trees I learned to look at houses and trees against 
the sky. And I learned also that shadows are not black but colored." 

If I could only, by some magic beyond that of my pencil, reproduce the 
background of the old houses, and convey something of the color, denied to the 
artist in black and white,- I might feel that this record of my two years in the Old 
World would convey some greater part of the charm and quaintness that lies in 
these odd corners. 

But whether it is the bias of my profession of architect, or a difficulty with 
the pencil which I have chosen as a medium, I have found myself compromising 
between my desire to convey the atmosphere and my wish to depict the infinitely 
interesting detail of old buildings, old iron, old craftsmans hip. To any one who 
has toiled up the ascent to Dinan, or walked in the summer serenity of the Devon 
countryside, or sat in the soft brilliance of an Italian day,- these relics of past days 
summon something more than sights of old buildings. 

There is an inescapable feeling of the many years that have washed away 
the bright newness they bore when mason and carpenter laid down their tools. 
There is some occult appeal in the thought of the generations of folk who have 
somehow managed to impress their personalities on these places. Then, too, and 
here again it may be my bias, there is a profound respect for those dead and gone 
builders, whose eye for line and care for curious detail are the envy of today, 
and, it must be confessed, the source of much that is pleasing and called original. 

To the one beholder, a view in Quimper may bring up the remembrance of 
the odd pottery for which the town is famous, to another it may recall the vol¬ 
uble shrug of a villager whose directions were incomprehensible, to another it 
may mean a meal, to still another a timbered house—but may I hope that to each 
one these sketches will bring back a little of that something which makes the 
Old World unforgettable. 

Woodruff k. Aykroyd 

Toronto, Canada 


t^^cknowledoments 


The sketch in Rouen, appearing on page 27, 
is reproduced by permission of Pencil Points, 
New York/ and those of Dinan on page 37, 
Le Mans, page 44, and Chinon, page 36, by 
permission of The Journal, Royal Architectural 
Institute of Canada, Toronto, in whose pages 
these sketches first appeared. 


TRAVEL SKETCHES IN THE OLD WORLD 













gMISS 


Coo DSIDS, 

LUGLAWD. ie>Vo« 


vv* 




wtfA'l' 


EeDKILL 


'*V'*rTE.f’ATZl5W 


Sv\ tiLFOPO 




■»hW' 

NtfE.E.TCOTT 


WtOOECOfA^ IUTHE N\DOtZ 


It s little I care what path I tahe, 
And where it leads it s little I 


11 


1 1 


care . . 
































M»vu 




4rr" 








"Oli, to be in England 


f t 


12 





































An 

the 


old Black and White , named j^or 
dark timber-work and the bright plaster. 


13 












"Wk 


en rrr 


y task is cJone ; I skall not accept 
a barony, but refusing with a bow, retire 
to a cottage in tbe country. 




























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X 


ears 


are 


on 


x 


our 


u 

grave. 




15 





















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KUDDiU^TON COUBT 




"Wide open and unguarded stand our gates. 

Th omas Bailey Aid rich. 


16 









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Church 



17 














Ck 



urc 


k Porck 


18 



































According to the b ooLs o this 13tb century cburcb 


Edward tbe Conjf 
d it. 


essor was 


lord oj" tbe manor wbicb 


sponsorec 


19 
























** 1 





Typical old k 


ouses in a sma 


village just nortk o| Colckester. 


20 













































THE. CtfSHRCOOKti ACM-> 
ME fee ftvtj't' VT* EWAOHOS 



TME WUVTe. V*/ftU 

^XeiCvTfOC(?-OW< AWOKi 



a 


-> CAHT6eW?Y» 


No, sir; there is nothing which has yet been 
contrived hy man, hy which so much happiness 
is produced as hy a good tavern or inn. 

Samuel Johnson 












































& 


» * • • 




Along* tut ui 4Vovu&uo. 



Here by the mill the castled clouds 


Mocked tk' 


emselves in the dizzy water 


M 


y 




22 















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Alomc, tue d^vce. m rtouftwo 


Except wind stands as never it stood ; 
is an ill wind turns none to good. 

Thomas Tusser. 

























An old k ouse on ike main street oj^ Vernon facing 
tke scjuare. It s cjuaintness kas keen capitalized ky 
tke tea room and antique skop wkick occupy it. 


24 


































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« KOOGkl * 


An old limbered group an d the 
gale lo the cathedral gardens. 


25 



































































Tour de la grosse Hor loge erected 1389 
restored 1892 . Tine clock and porch date JVom 1527 . 


26 












































- 


* *'%-•»***■ 


**&**—~ —-- > ** ' « 7 ^ 

^ vr —5*;*r*t 

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15tk century Louse in Rue 5t. R omain, 

adjoining ihe cathedral. 




























wtsgx 


,LCM$ 6ASWU, 




•sTAyoftux 


AbbEVILLt \«o 


28 

































4 



Cuusch* Honpleuc, 


A church o|" 

curious design with 

strangely incongruous 

timber-worL 

The huild 

ling has | 

fallen into disuse and 

remains mere 

\y an odd 

relic o|^ 

religion. 












































En F&ce. DE l'tGUS£ - COUCHES 


Two unicjue old h ouses with a single archway 
serving as an entrance 


|"or them Doth. 


30 












































































'The 

slouc 


high, white shoulders oj^ th 
h together |or consultation 


e 


ga hies 
n 


* US1EOX * 


31 



























Some old houses in {he Place Victoi 


H ugo. 


32 




































































„ * **•«• • 




A.V4 ^CADEO ^OUSE IW DOl * 


A jine example oj" the type oj- arcacJed house 
is rapi Jly d isappearing jrom French villages. 




33 





























D'ki AM o 


Dinan is situated on a steep granite roc 
two kuridred jeet above ike Ra nee river. 


k 


34 























































































\ 

\ 



Had 

1 kut 

plenty omoney, money 

enou 

gh and to spare 

Ue 

house 

jor me, no douht, were a h 

ouse 

in tke city scjuare 

All, 

suck a 

lij-e, suck a li|e ; as one lea 

ds at 

tke window tkere 


35 




























































Tour de I’ Horloge—15th century 




LTIml 1 



iH 

m'-. L r 

i-IS® 

1 

: iffilRP 

K 


K 

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I 



> ..y. -NV. 

i* 

PIP 



we wrestle 


d. 


Ok glory, tkat 

So valiantly witk time. 

Rickard Miln 


er 


36 





































































Rue cJe J 


erzua 


-a wi 


inding street oj^ 


Dinan. 


37 



































An interesting timbered bouse. 






38 






















































GLoi *\ PtR. 


Tine good bourgeois oj^ Q uimper serve as model; 
for {ke piclurescjue fg ures painted on tine jamous 
pottery wlnicln tine town exports. 


























































































J0SV5UV1 







'•S 

NyfJH 

Tr 

j. -1 - § : 


k. & V 


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e ver 


7 


Lou 


ses seem asleep. 


11 


P- 

Wordsworth. 



















































kUK.fVt'. 




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M 


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—J 

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3 



A street corner |acing 

smell 

oj^ the sea and 

catch 

mingle. 



e 

s 


41 















































On the marbh 


pavement 



;; 

grows. 


42 

















* OLD <S,*T^WAV * 






Porte St. Patern-a su 

|ortijications o|" Vannes. 


rviva 


o| the old 


43 















































Cafe' ToL ac-a drink-a ciga retie- 

or a stamp! 


44 




















































V 
1 1 


Sto/iwZ- 


‘5o, 

|rienc 

J, your si 

lop was 

all your 

Its 

jront, 

astonish 

ing {lie 

street, 

1 nvi 

ted vi 

ew jrom 

man an 

cJ mouse 


ouse! 


tt 








































































Old timbered hou 


coats 


oj^ plaster ; stand in tbe shadow oj^the ruined 
chateau o| Cki non. 






* cwmow 






















































































VlCCZ DE LQ POiE>SOvAW^C.ie. 


15lk 





ouse. 


47 



















































































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cen 



house 



town. 





48 









































NMr;.M#>vG>G*lO 


Small Italian towns lie at the joot o|" the Alps, 
their white houses gay with red til e roojs. 









Typical Venetian palace on the Grand canal. 

In jront oj^ my gate the horse and carriage-way 
in a single night has turned into a river-hed. 



50 










































































T. - \ TMY* 


Most |a mous o|^ the Florentine bridges over 
the A rno, tke P onte Vecchio is lined with 
shops like a gaudy bazaar. 


51 
























t 

i 







Build on, and make thy castles high and fair, 
Rising and reaching upward to the skies. 

Longfellow. 


52 









Bill 

W\ I (1 




TUC CLOC< TONVER 


v C APRl * 


Tar across {lie cjuiet roojs {lie hour is tolled 
From ghostly towers .... 




























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v/euiCE 



vemcs. 


ITM-1&M. CUlMkiEY TOPS 

- W'Vi.A.. 


Anotker two ran up ike ladder, and 
lied some smoke lo ike ck imney. 

Tkal certainly jimskes il, ikey said. 

Peler Pan. 































vsmcs. 



upwu e 


ITAUAM CWIMUEV TOPS 

ve. h ic&j. t v’zq 

W.k'A . 



V^VIUS 





Old stone and cracking plast er-Veneti 


sy-tops 


:liitectural pattern 


jound only in the city oj" which they are a part. 


55 


































56 









ITT* CEUTUfcY 



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59 










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At a tk ousand gates an d ten tkousand 
doors tke jisk-skaped keys turn. 


61 











































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